thewhiteowl
21/10/2004, 22:09
Στο site της Aprilia βρήκα αυτό το άρθρο και το βρήκα ενδιαφέρον και επίκαιρο:
Winter, the most hated season for a motorcyclist is coming on. Many of them feel like it’s time to put their beloved motorbike in nice and warm place. But in order not to have bad surprises in springtime it’s necessary to pay a little bit of attention. Let it “sleep” in a box is essential, but it‘s also necessary to respect some other little, obvious rules that will allow us to find our motorbike or scooter in shape for the next year.
First of all the cleaning; as for many other things, also the motorbike needs to be accurately cleaned-up before we decide to put her metaphorically in the “drawer”. Those who have used it till the very end before surrendering to the chill have surely faced a rainy day, with all it consequences in terms of dirt and corrosion. The advice is always the same: cure by yourself the cleaning of the motorbike (for those who can of course) for this is the only way to notice little troubles like an slacked screw and so on. Washed and dried, the bike is ready to be parked in the box. Pay attention to the chain that should be carefully oiled because metal becomes oxidized even when the motorbike is not used. The wiring is another item you should pay attention to. Humidity and cold are deathly enemies for the battery that necessitates of particular cures to start again efficiently next season. If you think that you won’t use the bike for a long time it’s better to disconnect it, take it from the motorbike and put it in charge from time to time. This is particularly suggested for those motorbikes that use an electric set up for the alarm; absorbing a little dose of energy from the battery, it causes after few days the discharge of the latter that in short will need to be changed. If the motorbike has a central stand it’s better to use it so that the weight is not concentrated only on the wheels avoiding the chances of getting tires oval. If the motorbike has no central stand but only a side one it’s better, from time to time, to ride it a little even just pushing it to change tires’ position. A little piece of wood should be placed under them to avoid as much as possible every contact with the soil: humidity coming from it may cause an early ageing of tires. If you are willing to change them, it’s better to garage the motorbike with old tires and change them when you start to use the bike again.
Few little rules, as you can see, are sufficient to have a mean perfectly efficient once you need it. No maintenance is necessary instead for brakes and suspensions: they won’t have troubles during wintertime. In case you have a cloth to cover the motorbike, use it, otherwise a good sheet will be fine. In the long run, dust as well can damage your motorbike.
Talking about those indomitable motorcyclists, who neither during the freezing winter season want to put their motorbike in lethargy, here we suggest few devices (more or less deductible) for the usage of the two wheels in extreme conditions. Before, after and during winter time.
We should start saying that today motorbikes, comparing them to those of the past, are affected by hard climatic conditions in a small percentage that’s why they won’t have big troubles in working. And if you keep on up keeping the coachwork motorbike’s risk of aging, within the winter time, is drastically reduced. It’s also important to remember that during the wintry season roads are much more unclean. Bad weather is more frequent and in cases of close-to-zero temperatures the asphalt is sprinkled with salt, sand and other substances able to guarantee a safe circulation. All this “stuff” is “absorbed” by our motorbike and, with the use, it deposits on wheels, hubs, on final drive and in the low part of the front fairing (when there’s one) or in engine parts and on the frame. For this reason it would be opportune to wash frequently the motorbike, to avoid the corrosive action of this substances that sometimes may damage bike’s metals. The lubrication of moving parts, especially in case of chain final drive, may be an obvious thing but it’s quite important. It should be done much more often and every time the chain is cleaned. It’s possible to buy apposite products for specific parts of vehicles. For what concerns the mechanical “zones”, it’s important to avoid aggressive detergents. It’s necessary on the other hand to pay more attention to the over structures: in this case products containing solvents shouldn’t be used, to limit the risk of spoiling the paint (usually less persistent that car’s one). Not to talk of the decal risk: make sure that they are under transparent, otherwise you’d risk serious damages. This kind of damage concerns mainly those types of motorbikes varnished with the “mat” system. It may be nice but you cannot use on them any kind of protective wax. For “standard” varnishing, the use of this waxes is very useful to protect the paint during winter time. Anyway major brands specialized in cleaning products have a specific line for motorbikes in their catalogue, usually less aggressive than cars one.
For what concerns instead the usage of the motorbike it’s good to take a look over the up -keep and usage booklet in which you’ll find constructor’s infos about specific engine oils for low temperatures. This is suggested for particularly cold climates, typical for instance of northern countries. Tires in optimal conditions should be always suggested, but especially during winter an inadequate covering is synonymous of a big danger. If you don’t plan to reach high speed it’s possible to obtain more grip deflating a little (a tenth of bar) both wheels. The friction surface increases and adherence too. Last but not least remember that the engine takes few seconds more to reach the ideal usage temperature. Also visibility is reduced with fogs and rains, which is a good reason to check the lighting system efficiency.
It’s better to be provided with anti-dim visors. In alternative it’s possible to apply pellicles inside the visor or to use sprays or liquids to sprinkle on, but they are less practical. Briefly, for the ride, only two basic devices: keep always in mind the reduced visibility and the slighter asphalt adherence. On the wet avoid to brake roughly or incline to much the motorbike so that it touches the paint of asphalts’ traffic signs.
In short, tires hardly succeed in reaching adequate temperatures for sport riding; even if there’s a nice sunny day, shady corners are colder and the risk of sliding is high. A little more attention is always suggested.
Winter, the most hated season for a motorcyclist is coming on. Many of them feel like it’s time to put their beloved motorbike in nice and warm place. But in order not to have bad surprises in springtime it’s necessary to pay a little bit of attention. Let it “sleep” in a box is essential, but it‘s also necessary to respect some other little, obvious rules that will allow us to find our motorbike or scooter in shape for the next year.
First of all the cleaning; as for many other things, also the motorbike needs to be accurately cleaned-up before we decide to put her metaphorically in the “drawer”. Those who have used it till the very end before surrendering to the chill have surely faced a rainy day, with all it consequences in terms of dirt and corrosion. The advice is always the same: cure by yourself the cleaning of the motorbike (for those who can of course) for this is the only way to notice little troubles like an slacked screw and so on. Washed and dried, the bike is ready to be parked in the box. Pay attention to the chain that should be carefully oiled because metal becomes oxidized even when the motorbike is not used. The wiring is another item you should pay attention to. Humidity and cold are deathly enemies for the battery that necessitates of particular cures to start again efficiently next season. If you think that you won’t use the bike for a long time it’s better to disconnect it, take it from the motorbike and put it in charge from time to time. This is particularly suggested for those motorbikes that use an electric set up for the alarm; absorbing a little dose of energy from the battery, it causes after few days the discharge of the latter that in short will need to be changed. If the motorbike has a central stand it’s better to use it so that the weight is not concentrated only on the wheels avoiding the chances of getting tires oval. If the motorbike has no central stand but only a side one it’s better, from time to time, to ride it a little even just pushing it to change tires’ position. A little piece of wood should be placed under them to avoid as much as possible every contact with the soil: humidity coming from it may cause an early ageing of tires. If you are willing to change them, it’s better to garage the motorbike with old tires and change them when you start to use the bike again.
Few little rules, as you can see, are sufficient to have a mean perfectly efficient once you need it. No maintenance is necessary instead for brakes and suspensions: they won’t have troubles during wintertime. In case you have a cloth to cover the motorbike, use it, otherwise a good sheet will be fine. In the long run, dust as well can damage your motorbike.
Talking about those indomitable motorcyclists, who neither during the freezing winter season want to put their motorbike in lethargy, here we suggest few devices (more or less deductible) for the usage of the two wheels in extreme conditions. Before, after and during winter time.
We should start saying that today motorbikes, comparing them to those of the past, are affected by hard climatic conditions in a small percentage that’s why they won’t have big troubles in working. And if you keep on up keeping the coachwork motorbike’s risk of aging, within the winter time, is drastically reduced. It’s also important to remember that during the wintry season roads are much more unclean. Bad weather is more frequent and in cases of close-to-zero temperatures the asphalt is sprinkled with salt, sand and other substances able to guarantee a safe circulation. All this “stuff” is “absorbed” by our motorbike and, with the use, it deposits on wheels, hubs, on final drive and in the low part of the front fairing (when there’s one) or in engine parts and on the frame. For this reason it would be opportune to wash frequently the motorbike, to avoid the corrosive action of this substances that sometimes may damage bike’s metals. The lubrication of moving parts, especially in case of chain final drive, may be an obvious thing but it’s quite important. It should be done much more often and every time the chain is cleaned. It’s possible to buy apposite products for specific parts of vehicles. For what concerns the mechanical “zones”, it’s important to avoid aggressive detergents. It’s necessary on the other hand to pay more attention to the over structures: in this case products containing solvents shouldn’t be used, to limit the risk of spoiling the paint (usually less persistent that car’s one). Not to talk of the decal risk: make sure that they are under transparent, otherwise you’d risk serious damages. This kind of damage concerns mainly those types of motorbikes varnished with the “mat” system. It may be nice but you cannot use on them any kind of protective wax. For “standard” varnishing, the use of this waxes is very useful to protect the paint during winter time. Anyway major brands specialized in cleaning products have a specific line for motorbikes in their catalogue, usually less aggressive than cars one.
For what concerns instead the usage of the motorbike it’s good to take a look over the up -keep and usage booklet in which you’ll find constructor’s infos about specific engine oils for low temperatures. This is suggested for particularly cold climates, typical for instance of northern countries. Tires in optimal conditions should be always suggested, but especially during winter an inadequate covering is synonymous of a big danger. If you don’t plan to reach high speed it’s possible to obtain more grip deflating a little (a tenth of bar) both wheels. The friction surface increases and adherence too. Last but not least remember that the engine takes few seconds more to reach the ideal usage temperature. Also visibility is reduced with fogs and rains, which is a good reason to check the lighting system efficiency.
It’s better to be provided with anti-dim visors. In alternative it’s possible to apply pellicles inside the visor or to use sprays or liquids to sprinkle on, but they are less practical. Briefly, for the ride, only two basic devices: keep always in mind the reduced visibility and the slighter asphalt adherence. On the wet avoid to brake roughly or incline to much the motorbike so that it touches the paint of asphalts’ traffic signs.
In short, tires hardly succeed in reaching adequate temperatures for sport riding; even if there’s a nice sunny day, shady corners are colder and the risk of sliding is high. A little more attention is always suggested.