View Full Version : The Most Frequent Reasons For Bike Accidents.
The Most Frequent Reasons For Bike Accidents.
James R. Davis © The Master Strategy Group 1998
“The most fatal accidents are not ‘He didn’t see me’ problems”
It is a common belief that most motorcycle accidents are the result of someone turning left into them from oncoming traffic. …The July 1994 report issued from the (USA) Insurance Institute for Highway Safety corrects this widespread opinion and it makes the following points:
Running off the road, usually in a curve, often involving alcohol and usually a ‘single vehicle’ accident accounted for a stunning 41 percent of the total motorcycle fatalities. This is more than twice the percentage of any other cause.
The running of a traffic signal in an intersection, most often a stop sign and most often by the other vehicle, accounted for 18 percent of the total accidents.
Oncoming, head-on crashes accounted for 11 percent of the total. Very few of these were in intersections and a few were on divided roads. About half were on straight roads and the other half on curves.
58 percent of all these crashes were attributed to the motorcycle rider’s failure to stay in lane or using excessive speed. Left-turn oncoming crashes, as with the oncoming crash type described above, involve vehicles traveling in opposite directions. However, for this crash type, one of the vehicles is in the process of making a left-turn in front of oncoming traffic. This was the fourth most common crash type accounting for only 8 percent of the total. The left-turn was usually being made by the other vehicle and not the motorcycle. That is, the motorcycle usually had the superior right of way. This crash often occurred at intersections (69 percent) or at driveways and alleys (7 percent).
Motorcycle down”, meaning the motorcyclist loses control of the bike (including deliberately ‘dumping’ it) and it goes down on the roadway, accounted for another 7 percent of the total. These usually occurred on dry, level, and straight roads.
These five categories account for about 86 percent of all the fatalities looked at. “He didn’t see me” excuses could only be used in about half the ‘running traffic signal’ and ‘oncoming’ situations as well as most of those categorized as ‘left-turns’. In other words, no more than about 20 percent of all these fatalities involved a second vehicle that could have claimed not to see the motorcyclist.
Further, while the report goes on to make some suggestions about how to reduce these accidents, it does not read like the writings of a motorcycle rider. To suggest that an important possible countermeasure is to ‘avoid excessive speed when entering an intersection’ pales in comparison to simply insuring that another vehicle is on your right side as you enter intersections, for example.
Following is the full text of the cited article:
Analysis of Fatal Motorcycle Crashes: Crash Typing from FARS. Data by David Preusser, Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, 1005 N Glebe Road, Arlington, VA 22201 (July 1994)
“… The most frequently occurring crash type was ran off-road, followed by ran traffic control, oncoming (i.e., head-on), left-turn oncoming, and motorcyclist down. Taken together, these five most frequent types accounted for 86 percent of the crashes. Ran off-road crashes involve situations where the motorcyclist leaves the roadway and overturns or strikes some off-road object. This is the most frequently occurring motorcycle crash type accounting for 41 percent of the total. These are often late night, weekend crashes involving a motorcyclist who had been drinking. Off-road objects struck include: culvert, curbs, or ditches (24 percent of the crashes); posts and poles (11 percent); trees (10 percent); and guard rails (10 percent). This crash type, unlike the other crash types, most often occurs on a curve in the road (71 percent at curves versus 21 percent for all other crashes). Most are single-vehicle crashes though occasionally the motorcycle, the driver, or debris returns to the roadway and some other vehicle becomes involved. Ran traffic control crashes occur when one vehicle with an obligation to stop, remain stopped, or yield, fails to do so and thus collides with some other vehicle. This was the second most frequently occurring motorcycle crash type accounting for 18 percent of the total. Most occurred at intersections (72 percent), driveways and alleys (7 percent), or interchanges (4 percent). The traffic control device was most often a stop sign (39 percent) or traffic control signal (18 percent). Nearly all (97 percent) were “angle” collisions. Analysis of these crashes indicated that it was the driver of the other vehicle, not the motorcyclist, who was most often assigned the FARS driver factor “failed to yield”. That is, in many cases, the motorcycle had the superior right of way. The driver factor most often assigned to the motorcycle was “excessive speed” (80 versus 4) indicating, at least in some of these cases, that the motorcycle was approaching the intersection at a high rate of speed making it difficult for the other motorist to detect the motorcycle in time. Oncoming or head-on crashes involve a collision between two vehicles traveling in opposite directions. This was the third most common motorcycle crash type accounting for 11 percent of the total. Few of these crashes occurred at intersections (5 percent versus 25 percent for all other cash types) and few occurred on divided highways (7 percent versus 25 percent). About half occurred on straight roadways and half occurred on curves. Driver factors, typically failure to remain in established lane and/or excessive speed, were most often assigned to the motorcycle (158 versus 58). Left-turn oncoming crashes, as with the oncoming crash type described above, involve vehicles traveling in opposite directions. However, for this crash type, one of the vehicles is in the process of making a left-turn in front of oncoming traffic. This was the fourth most common crash type accounting for 8 percent of the total. The left-turn was usually being made by the other vehicle and not the motorcycle that is; the motorcycle usually had the superior right of way. This crash often occurred at intersections (69 percent) or at driveways and alleys (7 percent). Motorcyclists down crashes cover situations where the motorcyclist loses control of the vehicle and goes down in the roadway. The motorcycles could have struck something in the roadway or have been struck by some other vehicle after going down. This was the fifth most common crash type accounting for 7 percent of the total. Generally, it could not be determined why the motorcycle went down. The “loss of control” could have been a deliberate action on the part of the motorcyclist (i.e., putting the bike down) to avoid some perceived threat ahead. The crashes occurred on dry (93 percent) level (73 percent) roadways that were straight (56 percent) or curved (43 percent).
The most important finding in the present study was that five defined crash types accounted for 86 percent of all of the motorcycle crash events studied. Two of these types, ran off-road and oncoming, are predominantly the result of one or more errors (i.e. driver factors) on the part of the motorcyclist. Both typically involve a motorcyclist who leaves the appropriate travel lane(s) either running off the road or colliding with a vehicle coming from the opposite direction. Both tend to occur more frequently in rural areas, on higher speed roadways and at curves. Ran off-road crashes are very often alcohol related.…It is surprising that some people persist in thinking that most motorcycle accidents occur in. …While we should apply extra care in an intersection…the evidence suggests that we need to be even more careful in handling curves.”
Consider these data from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s (NHTSA) Report entitled: “Traffic Safety facts on all traffic fatalities in the US during the 1994 year” … Motorcycle operator error was identified as a contributing factor in 76 percent of fatal crashes involving motorcycles. Excessive speed was the contributing factor most often noted. 43 percent of fatally injured operators and 48 percent of fatally injured passengers were not wearing helmets at the time of the crash. Approximately one out of every five motorcycles operators involved in a fatal crash in 1994 was driving with an invalid license at the time of the collision. Motorcycle operators involved in fatal crashes in 1994 had a higher blood alcohol concentration (BAC) level (28.9 percent) than any other type of motor vehicle driver.
Safety and Survival Tips
L.T. Snyder © 2000
The following tips may appear to be common sense. But when you are looking around after a sudden preventable accident, sometimes common sense is nowhere to be found.
· Do Not Follow that Line! Do not assume the fellow in front of you has the right line and speed through the turn. Different riders and bikes have different traits. Unless you know the person in front of you like the back of your hand, do not trust his line. If his or her line is wrong and you follow you could both end up some place you did not intend to go.
· Inspect & Detect. Check brakes, mirrors, headlight, turn signals, horn, and tire condition. When was the last time you did that before you rode? Most of us just put the key in, turn the ignition to on, start it up, and head off. Yet we all know that motorcycles are maintenance intensive.
· Rain, Rain, and Go Away! During heavy storms cars even pull over to the side of the road when visibility lessens. While I do not encourage riding under such conditions, I have learned a great deal about the capabilities of my bike and its tires while caught in downpour conditions. It is amazing what a bike can do in the rain. If you are careful, watch out for puddles, and avoid rain tracks in the lane, and prepare more for braking, it can actually be fun. More importantly, it builds confidence. If you have not ridden in the rain, how do you know you have the skills to survive a downpour? It is all part of riding.
· Know Your Limits Do Not plan on 500-mile days, if you have not ridden in a month. On long trips, statistics show that on day seven, the typical long distance rider will cover about 65 percent of the average daily mileage on a two-day trip. This means fatigue is progressive over days throughout a multiple day trek. Plan ahead for this fact. There's nothing worse than rushing a trip and getting to see nothing but yellow lines flash by next to you. While the miles may add up, you will have nothing but stories of fatigue to show for it.
· Forget High Speeds Data shows that high speeds and distance are not correlated on motorcycle rides. Higher speeds exponentially wear out the rider and spoil fuel efficiency. You will spend more time refueling or signing your name on traffic tickets. Dodging traffic also increases fatigue, as well as increases your blood pressure and those around you. Driving at high speeds also tarnishes the sport. Did you ever wonder why some people have attitudes towards motorcyclists? Perhaps it’s due to throttle jockeys who love to lane-split their way down open freeways.
· Know Your Riding Partners. Know and trust whom you are riding with. Experienced riding partners ride in a staggered formation and learn to sense when the other is braking and accelerating. By working together, you can reduce the chances of accidents by doubling your visibility and using you partner either as a shield or as a shield to him.
· Pack it Right. The right way to pack is as important as what to pack. Make sure that your load is centered, stable, and that only the right stuff is loaded. A good rule of thumb is as follows: You cannot get very far if your bike breaks down, so bike maintenance items should take priority. Second priority should be personal comfort items, including motorcycle riding gear and camping items. Third on the agenda are things that you'd like to take, but aren't quite sure if they will fit, like portable washing machines, hair dryers, etc.... Part of the fun is knowing what to pack, and what not to pack.
· Practice Your Art. The only way to keep your skills honed is to ride and practice. While riding pick out spots on the road and imagine them to be debris. Practice avoiding such spots and other make-believe obstacles (do not try real ones, such as people please). Following at a safe distance is a good way of increasing your reaction time to such obstacles. The finer arts of riding can be obtained by practicing slow speed drills. Most of my spills have been during low speed maneuvers, such as parking or making U-turns. Another tip is to treat every turn as if sand were there. Do not trust the surface to provide friction unless you have been through it already. This is especially true at intersections, but is equally likely on any corner where automobile or truck tires push around dirt.
· A Healthy Paranoia. Drive scared. I have heard some people state that aggressive defense is a good way to drive. Whether you call it aggressive defense or paranoid driving, just do it! The best way is to learn the proper techniques through beginner's and advanced rider's courses. Scanning is the number one best way to stay out of trouble. If you see a target in front, to the side, or behind you develop the knack of making mental notes of their possible actions and your reactions. If anything remotely smells of trouble, cover your brakes. The plus side is that while you can get into some sticky situations, a twist of the wrist can often get you out of them.
· Be See. I have read stories of motorcyclists who made direct eye contact with drivers, only to have them then pull out in front of their bike. Trust no one! The best way to avoid placing any trust in other vehicles is to stay away from them. This includes placing a buffer zone around your bike and maintaining it. By protecting your safe zone you maintain visibility and increase the chances of your anticipating any unforeseen events. This is a difficult feat in heavy traffic. At the very least, avoid traveling directly behind trucks. When you do you are placing your future in that driver's hands and minimize any possibility of you avoiding objects in your path.
· Dress it Right and Cover Down. Anyone in the military has heard those words at one time or another. Proper dress can save your skin. This is a difficult feat amidst blistering summer temperatures, but while those shorts may be nice and cool, they lend little protection in a fall. The way I look at is this...If it's too hot to wear a helmet, it is too hot to ride. If you commute, try avoiding the hottest parts of the day. Most of this discussion goes away in the winter, since we all don whatever windproof apparel we have. However, in the summer I continually witness riders in shorts, without shirts on and using sandals as their feet armor. I do not think these riders have ever witnessed what happens to human flesh after it slides 50-100 feet on the tarmac.
· Position Yourself. If the car you are following has its left turn signal on, move over to the right side of the lane. This allows the cars following you to see without obstruction the turn signal of the car ahead and warns them of stopped vehicles up in front. If the car you are tailing has its right turn signal on, move over to the left side of the lane. This again permits cars following to see more clearly. But just before you stop behind the car, move over to the right hand side of the lane. Being stopped behind the car on the right hand side offers an escape route if in fact the cars behind do not stop in time to avoid a collision.
· What you cannot see can hurt you. Blind corners have claimed many motorcyclists. A good survival rule of thumb is never to rely solely on signs. If you have never been on an upcoming set of turns you are, in essence, a rookie. And rookies should never push it to the limit. Rarely do signs warn of gravel in the middle of the turn, off-camber turns or decreasing radius turns. Local riders will know every inch of each turn, but you will not. Twisties are the greatest invention since sliced bread, but a sliced rider cannot twisty. Ask any racer if they mentally prepare for each track, they are on.
· What is new can kill you. What is worse than having a new rider on a bike they have never ridden? -- Perhaps a new bike that an experienced rider has not ridden. Just because you have conquered your last bike does not mean that you can ride anything. Unfortunately, experienced riders often forget to be humble when handling a new toy. Different throttle responses, braking tendencies, cornering ability, center of gravity, and ergonomics can really throw you off. Treat any bike you have not mastered with respect. If you do not, you may find they bite as hard as they bark
How to Survive a Fatal Accident
Malcolm Palmer © 2001
Crashing into a car isn't a good way of staying fit and healthy, so it must be worth considering any way of reducing the severity of injuries which you could suffer in an accident.
It takes the average car driver four or five seconds to arrive at a give way line, check that the main road is clear, rev the engine, set the clutch to biting point and then accelerate away - possibly into the path of an average motorcyclist.
If you are that approaching motorcyclist, then you have four or five seconds at best to remember, consider and implement any attempt at avoiding an accident - and all under considerable mental pressure! Quite simply, a rider may be too close for emergency braking to guarantee success and will probably have too little time to swerve around the emerging vehicle. The rider's fate seems certain as the options available are very limited.
A variety of measures can be taken on the approach to junctions to try to prevent the situation from developing further, but for now we will confine ourselves to an 'imminent collision'.
If you have seen the TRL and IMMA leg protector and airbag videos you will be well aware of these types of crashes, and of how violent these impacts actually are. If nothing else, they emphasize the advantages of keeping out of accidents rather than trying to reduce their severity.
With the 'traditional' type of accident, a car turning right from a side road on your left, you are likely to collide with the car in one of three ways. Just which one it is will depend on how much time elapses between the driver starting to pull out and you arriving at the same bit of road that the car is occupying. This time delay will change the way you collide with it, and will affect the options open to you. Let's look at these three main variations.
In the first, the driver pulls out when you are still some distance from the junction. There is almost time for the driver to clear your bit of road and you have a higher chance of using machine control, braking or steering to avoid a collision. Panic braking is likely to cause the wheels to lock, so be prepared to release and re-apply. Swerving around the car could present you with a number of other questions: Is the driver stopping the car or continuing to accelerate out? Has the driver of the second car in the queue at the junction decided to play follow-my-leader? Is there any oncoming traffic? Will I avoid the car, only to hit something more solid still? If you are attempting to brake and swerve, remember that they are separate actions. Combining the two won't work!
If you are going to collide with the car, it is likely to be a glancing or angled impact with its side or square-on to its rear wheel arch area. Try to ensure that it is the bike which hits the car, not you. Stand up. If your leg is about to attempt an impersonation of a crash bar, lift your leg. If you can get your knee and shin onto the seat, the car driver will really have to work hard to break them! Release the handlebar on the side that will impact and swing your arm in front of your body.
In the second variation, you are closer to the junction when the driver starts to pull out. This is likely to be the worst scenario, as the car will be completely obstructing the lane. Braking will not be effective, reducing your speed only slightly and giving you only a small time delay before arriving at the accident. The car may be blocking the full lane width, making any evasive maneuver unlikely to succeed.
You will probably T-bone into the middle of the car, which is its highest and strongest section. It is designed as a reinforced cage to protect the occupants - not to permit easy access for a passing motorcyclist. If you can, steer towards the bonnet or boot, for these areas are lower and designed to absorb impact. Not exactly a soft landing, but in these circumstances anything helps.
The next technique may be difficult to remember and enact under the circumstances (i.e. scared . . . rigid): Stand up and jump as high as you can! The idea is to take yourself off the bike (missing the 'bars and petrol tank) and over the car. Just standing up will help, but the higher you jump the better!
Flying over the vehicle will present you with another immediate problem: landing. I can't help you much here, though a lot will depend on the amount and quality of your clothing. Although this jumping technique may sound dubious, hitting a car at 40mph and coming to an abrupt halt will probably kill you. Falling off (i.e. landing) at the same speed will just scuff leather and possibly break bones. You may argue that by missing the car, you will hit something else. Quite true, but you're not really going to be much worse off, are you?
In the third and final variation, the driver starts off just as you reach the junction. The vehicle is likely to hit your side. If you are lucky, you may clear the junction before the car moves into the major road. You might even see the first clues that the car is moving, so you could accelerate out of the danger area as quickly as possible.
If not, then the standing up and arm-swinging technique is used again. You might even control the bike and continue on; one of the TRL videos shows a bike continuing on upright after just such an impact with a car. So, if in doubt, pretend you are a TRL dummy!
The closer you are to the vehicle when it emerges, the less time you will have to react, so it becomes even more important to have your escape route or evacuation plan arranged. Ask yourself a few questions: How could that affect me? Has that driver seen me? Is that car going to move out? Can I stop if it does (how good is the road surface)? If the car does move, what must I do?
It is important to be pessimistic. Treat every junction as if a vehicle will pull out until you are sure it is not going to happen - and even then, don’t drop your guard. Keep thinking through the options available to you before you need them. When a collision is imminent, thinking time is strictly limited.
A few years ago, Bike magazine gave away a set of stickers. One of them read 'The best leg protector is your brain'. Very true, but only if you know what to do and actually use it to help yourself.
Pace Yourself
Nick Ienatsch © Sport Rider Magazine 1993
Hammer on the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street
Racing involves speed, concentration and commitment; the results of a mistake are usually catastrophic because there's little room for error riding at 100 percent.
Performance street riding is less intense and further from the absolute limit, but because circumstances are less controlled, mistakes and over-aggressiveness can be equally catastrophic.
Plenty of road racers have sworn off street riding. "Too dangerous, too many variables and too easy to get carried away with too much speed," track specialists claim. Adrenaline-addled racers find themselves treating the street like the track, and not surprisingly, they get burned by the police, the laws of physics and the cold, harsh realities of an environment not groomed for ten tenths riding.
But as many of us know, a swift ride down a favorite road may be the finest way to spend a few free hours with a bike we love. And these few hours are best enjoyed riding at The Pace.
A year after I joined the Motorcyclist staff in 1984, Mitch Boehm was hired. Six months later, The Pace came into being, and we perfected it during the next few months of road testing and weekend fun rides. Now The Pace is part of my life--and a part of the Sunday-morning riding group I frequent. The Pace is a street technique that not only keeps street riders alive, but thoroughly entertained as well.
The pace
The Pace focuses on bike control and de-emphasizes outright speed.
Full-throttle acceleration and last minute braking aren't part of the program, effectively eliminating the two most common single-bike accident scenarios in sport riding.
Cornering momentum is the name of the game, stressing strong, forceful inputs at the handlebar to place the bike correctly at the entrance of the turn and get it flicked in with little wasted time and distance.
Since the throttle wasn't slammed open at the exit of the last corner, the next corner doesn't require much, if any, braking. It isn't uncommon to ride with our group and not see a brake light flash all morning.
If the brakes are required, the front lever gets squeezed smoothly, quickly and with a good deal of force to set entrance speed with minimum time.
Running in on the brakes is tantamount to running off the road, a confession that you're pushing too hard and not getting your entrance speed set early enough because you stayed on the gas too long.
Running the Pace decreases your reliance on the throttle and brakes, the two easiest controls to abuse, and hones your ability to judge cornering speed, which is the most thrilling aspect of performance street riding.
Your lane is your limit
Crossing the centerline at any time except during a passing maneuver is intolerable, another sign that you're pushing too hard to keep up.
Even when you have a clean line of sight through a left-hand kink, stay to the right of the centerline. Staying on the right side of the centerline is much more challenging than simply straightening every slight corner, and when the whole group is committed to this intelligent practice, the temptation to cheat is eliminated through peer pressure and logic. Though street riding shouldn't be described in racing terms, you can think of your lane as the racetrack. Leaving your lane is tantamount to a crash. Exact bike control has you using every inch of your lane if the circumstances permit it.
· In corners with a clear line of sight and no oncoming traffic, enter at the far outside of the corner, turn the bike relatively late in the corner to get a late apex at the far inside of your lane and accelerate out, just brushing the far outside of your lane as your bike stands up. Steer your bike forcefully but smoothly to minimize the transition time; don't hammer it down because the chassis will bobble slightly as it settles, possibly carrying you off line. Since you haven't charged in on the brakes, you can get the throttle on early, before the apex, which balances and settles your bike for the drive out.
· More often than not, circumstances do not permit the full use of your lane from line to line and back again. Blind corners, oncoming traffic and gravel on the road are a few criteria that dictate a more conservative approach, so leave yourself a three- or four-foot (1.0 meter) margin for error, especially at the left side of the lane where errant oncoming traffic could prove fatal. Simply narrow your entrance on a blind right-hander and move your apex into your lane three feet (1.0 meter) on blind left turns in order to stay free of unseen oncoming traffic hogging the centerline.
Because you're running at The Pace and not flat out, your controlled entrances offer additional time to deal with unexpected gravel or other debris in your lane; the outside wheel track is usually the cleanest through a dirty corner since a car weights its outside tires most, scrubbing more dirt off the pavement in the process, so aim for that line.
A good leader, willing followers
The street is not a racing environment, and it takes humility, self assurance and self control to keep it that way.
The leader sets the pace and monitors his mirrors for signs of raggedness in the ranks that follow, such as tucking in on straights, crossing over the yellow line and hanging off the motorcycle in corners.
If the leader pulls away, he simply slows his straightaway speed slightly but continues to enjoy the corners, thus closing the ranks but missing none of the fun. The small group of three or four riders I ride with is so harmonious that the pace is identical no matter who's leading. The lead shifts occasionally with a quick hand sign, but there's never a pass for the lead with an ego on the sleeve. Make no mistake, the riding is spirited and quick--in the corners.
Anyone with a right arm can hammer down the straights; it's the proficiency in the corners that makes the Pace come alive.
Following distances are relatively lengthy, with the straightaways---taken at more moderate speeds--the perfect opportunity to adjust the gaps.
Keeping a good distance serves several purposes, besides being safer. Rock chips are minimized and the police won't suspect a race is in progress.
The Pace's style of not hanging off in corners also reduces the appearance of pushing too hard and adds a degree of maturity and sensibility in the eyes of the public and the law. There's a definite challenge to cornering quickly while sitting sedately on your bike.
New rider indoctrination takes some time because The Pace develops very high cornering speeds and newcomers want to hammer the throttle on exits to make up for what they lose at the entrances. Our group slows drastically when a new rider joins the ranks because our technique of moderate straightaway speeds and no brakes can suck the unaware into a corner too fast, creating the most common single-bike accident. With a new rider learning the Pace behind you, tap your brake lightly well before the turn to alert him and make sure he understands there's no pressure to stay with the group.
There's plenty of ongoing communication during The Pace. A foot off the peg indicates debris on the road, and all slowing or turning intentions are signaled in advance with the left hand and arm. Turn signals are used for direction changes and passing, with a wave of the left hand to thank the cars that move right and make it easy for the motorcyclists to get past. Since you don't have a death grip on the handlebar, you left hand is also free to wave to oncoming riders, a fading courtesy that we'd like to see return.
If you're getting the idea the Pace is a relaxing, noncompetitive way to ride with a group, you are right.
Relax and flick it
I'd rather spend a Sunday in the mountains riding at The Pace than a Sunday at the racetrack, it is that enjoyable. Countersteering is the name of the game, a smooth forceful steering input at the handlebar relayed to the tires contact patches through a rigid sport-bike frame. Riding at The Pace is certainly what the bike manufacturers had in mind when sport bikes evolved to the street.
But the machine isn't the most important aspect of running The Pace because you can do it on anything capable of getting through a corner.
Attitude is The Pace's most important aspect; realizing the friend ahead of you isn't a competitor, respecting his right to lead the group occasionally and giving him credit for his riding skills.
You must have the maturity to limit your straightaway speeds to allow the group to stay in touch and the sense to realize that racetrack tactics such as late braking and full throttle runs to redline will alienate the public and police and possibly introduce you to the unforgiving laws of gravity.
When the group arrives at the destination after running The Pace, no one feels outgunned or is left with the feeling he must prove himself on the return run.
If you've got something to prove, get on a racetrack.
The racetrack measures your speed with a stopwatch and direct competition, welcoming your aggression and gritty resolve to be the best.
Performance street riding's only yardstick is the amount of enjoyment gained, not lap times, finishing position or competitors beaten. The differences are huge but not always remembered by riders who haven't discovered The Pace's cornering pureness and group involvement. Hammer on the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street.
συνεχεια...
The street is not the track - it's a place to pace
Two weeks go a rider died when he and his bike tumbled off a cliff paralleling our favorite road. No gravel in the lane, no oncoming car pushing him wide, no ice. The guy screwed up. Rider error. Too much enthusiasm with too little skill, and this fatality wasn't the first on this road this year. As with most single-bike accidents, the rider entered the corner at a speed his brain told him was too fast, stood the bike up and nailed the rear brake. Goodbye.
On the racetrack the rider would have tumbled into the hay bales, visited the ambulance for a strip of gauze and headed back to the pits to straighten his handlebars and think about his mistake. But let's get one thing perfectly clear: the street is not the racetrack. Using it as such will shorten your riding career and keep you from discovering the Pace. The Pace is far from street racing - and a lot more fun.
The Pace places the motorcycle in its proper role as the controlled vehicle, not the controlling vehicle.
Too many riders of sport bikes become baggage when the throttle gets twisted - the ensuing speed is so overwhelming they are carried along in the rush. The Pace ignores outright speed and can be as much fun on a Ninja 250 as on a ZX-11, emphasizing rider skill over right-wrist bravado. A fool can twist the grip, but a fool has no idea how to stop or turn. Learning to stop will save your life; learning to turn will enrich it. What feels better than banking a motorcycle over into a corner?
The mechanics of turning a motorcycle involve pushing and/or pulling on the handlebars; while this isn't new information for most sport riders, realize that the force at the handlebar affects the motorcycle's rate of turn-in. Shove hard on the bars, and the bike snaps over; gently push the bars, and the bike lazily banks in.
Different corners require different techniques, but as you begin to think about lines, late entrances and late apexes, turning your bike at the exact moment and reaching he precise lean angle will require firm, forceful inputs ant the handlebars.
If you take less time to turn your motorcycle, you can use that time to brake more effectively or run deeper into the corner, affording yourself more time to judge the corner and a better look at any hidden surprises. It's important to look as far into the corner as possible and remember the adage, "You go where you look."
Don't rush
The number-one survival skill, after mastering emergency braking, is setting your corner-entrance speed early, or as Kenny Roberts says, "Slow in, fast out." Street riders may get away with rushing into 99 out of 100 corners, but that last one will have gravel, mud or a trespassing car. Setting entrance speed early will allow you to adjust your speed and cornering line, giving you every opportunity to handle the surprise.
We've all rushed into a corner too fast and experienced not just the terror but the lack of control when trying to herd the bike into the bend. If you're fighting the brakes and trying to turn the bike, any surprise will be impossible to deal with. Setting your entrance speed early and looking into the corner allows you to determine what type of corner you're facing. Does the radius decrease? Is the turn off-camber? Is there an embankment that may have contributed some dirt to the corner?
Racers talk constantly about late braking, yet that technique is used only to pass for position during a race, not to turn a quicker lap time. Hard braking blurs the ability to judge cornering speed accurately, and most racers who rely too heavily on the brakes find themselves passed at the corner exits because they scrubbed off too much cornering speed. Additionally, braking late often forces you to trail the brakes or turn the motorcycle while still braking. While light trail braking is an excellent and useful technique to master, understand that your front tire has only a certain amount of traction to give.
If you use a majority of the front tire's traction for braking and then ask it to provide maximum cornering traction as well, a typical low-side crash will result.
Also consider that your motorcycle won't steer as well with the fork fully compressed under braking. If you're constantly fighting the motorcycle while turning, it may be because you're braking too far into the corner. All these problems can be eliminated by setting your entrance speed early, an important component of running the Pace.
Since you aren't hammering the brakes at every corner entrance, your enjoyment of pure cornering will increase tremendously. You'll relish the feeling of snapping your bike into the corner and opening the throttle as early as possible.
Racers talk about getting the drive started, and that's just as important on the street. Notice how the motorcycle settles down and simply works better when the throttle is open? Use a smooth, light touch on the throttle and try to get the bike driving as soon as possible in the corner, even before the apex, the tightest point of the corner. If you find yourself on the throttle ridiculously early, it's an indication you can increase your entrance speed slightly be releasing the brakes earlier.
As you sweep past the apex, you can begin to stand the bike up out of the corner. This is best done by smoothly accelerating, which will help stand the bike up. As the rear tire comes off full lean, it puts more rubber on the road, and the forces previously used for cornering traction can be converted to acceleration traction. The throttle can be rolled open as the bike stands up.
This magazine won't tell you how fast is safe; we will tell you how to go fast safely. How fast you go is your decision, but it's one that requires reflection and commitment. High speed on an empty four-lane freeway is against the law, but it's fairly safe. Fifty-five miles per hour in a canyon may be legal, but it may also be dangerous. Get together with your friends and talk about speed. Set a reasonable maximum and stick to it. Done right, the Pace is addicting without high straightaway speeds.
The group I ride with couldn't care less about outright speed between corners; any gomer can twist a throttle. If you routinely go 100 mph, we hope you routinely practice emergency stops from that speed. Keep in mind outright speed will earn a ticket that is tough to fight and painful to pay; cruising the easy straight stuff doesn't attract as much attention from the authorities and sets your speed perfectly for the next sweeper.
Group mentality
Straights are the time to reset the ranks. The leader needs to set a pace that won't bunch up the followers, especially while leaving a stop sign or passing a car on a two-lane road. The leader must use the throttle hard to get around the car and give the rest of the group room to make the pass, yet he or she can't speed blindly along and earn a ticket for the whole group. With sane speeds on the straights, the gaps can be adjusted easily; the bikes should be spaced about two seconds apart for maximum visibility of surface hazards.
It's the group aspect of the Pace I enjoy most, watching the bikes in front of me click into a corner like a row of dominoes, or looking in my mirror as my friends slip through the same set of corners I just emerged from.
Because there's a leader and a set of rules to follow, the competitive aspect of sport riding is eliminated and that removes a tremendous amount of pressure from a young rider's ego - or even an old rider's ego. We've all felt the tug of racing while riding with friends or strangers, but the Pace takes that away and saves it for where it belongs: the racetrack. The racetrack is where you prove your speed and take chances to best your friends and rivals.
I've spend a considerable amount of time writing about the Pace for several reasons, not the least of which being the fun I've had researching it (continuous and ongoing).
But I have motivations that aren't so fun. I got scared a few years ago when Senator Danforth decided to save us from ourselves by trying to ban superbikes, soon followed by insurance companies blacklisting a variety of sport bikes. I've seen Mulholland Highway shut down because riders insisted on racing (and crashing) over a short section of it. I've seen heavy police patrols on roads that riders insist on throwing themselves off of. I've heard the term "murder-cycles" a dozen times too many. When we consider the abilities of a modern sport bike, it becomes clear that rider techniques is sorely lacking.
The Pace emphasizes intelligent, rational riding techniques that ignore racetrack heroics without sacrificing fun. The skills needed to excel on the racetrack make up the basic precepts of the Pace, excluding the mind-numbing speeds and leaving the substantially larger margin for error needed to allow for unknowns and immovable objects. Our sport faces unwanted legislation from outsiders, but a bit of throttle management from within will guarantee our future.
The pace principles
· Set cornering speed early. Blow the entrance and you'll never recover.
· Look down the road. Maintaining a high visual horizon will reduce perceived speed and help you avoid panic situations.
· Steer the bike quickly. There's a reason Wayne Rainey works out - turning a fast-moving motorcycle takes muscle.
· Use your brakes smoothly but firmly. Get on and then off the brakes and don't drag 'em.
· Get the throttle on early. Starting the drive settles the chassis, especially through a bumpy corner.
· Never cross the centerline except to pass. Crossing the centerline in a corner is an admittance that you can't really steer your bike. In racing terms, your lane is your course; staying right of the line adds a significant challenge to most roads and is mandatory for sport riding's future.
· Don't crowd the centerline. Always expect an oncoming car with two wheels in your lane.
· Don't hang off in the corners or tuck in on the straights. Sitting sedately on the bike looks safer and reduces unwanted attention. It also provides a built-in safety margin.
· When leading, ride for the group. Good verbal communication is augmented with hand signals and turn signals; change direction and speed smoothly.
· When following, ride with the group. If you can't follow a leader, don't expect anyone to follow you when you're setting the pace.
Pace Yourself continued: a conversation between Nick Ienatsch and Lance Holst
H. Marc Lewis © Sept-1994
At the 1994 USGP at Laguna Seca I attended a High-Performance Street Riding seminar given by Sport Rider and Motorcyclist magazines. Nick Ienatsch and Lance Holst did the presentation: Lance knows a hell of a lot about motorcycles and how to ride them quickly and safely and Nick seems to know even more than Lance. To prepare for the seminar they gave sport riding some considerable thought and tried to reduce the key points to a small enough number that we could remember 'em and therefore work on improving those areas. Nick and Lance presented two lists of five items, and then elaborated upon them (the elaboration given below is mine, from memory).
The first list presents 'Things to Do':
1) Look where you want to go.
a) Remember 'target fixation', the tendency to go where you look. So don't look at the pothole, look at the good pavement just beside it. Don't look at the road right in front of the front wheel, because it's too late to do anything about it. Look further down the road or through the corner. The faster you go, the further ahead you have to look. This is particularly important if you enter a corner 'hot' (too fast) — look at the road where you want to go and push on the inside handlebar, do not look for places to run off the road and crash.
2) Set entrance speed early.
a) Get your braking (or just backing off the throttle) done before you enter the corner. The purpose for this is so you can then open the throttle as soon as possible. This assumes you are riding what is called the 'late apex' line through the corner, meaning that you don't initiate your turn until you can see the exit of the corner, and if you can't see the exit then ride in as deep as possible (staying in your lane, of course) before beginning your turn. Setting your entrance speed early and correctly means you won't have to panic in mid-corner because you're in too hot.
3) Turn the bike quickly.
a) Using a short but strong countersteering effort (akin to the effort in rowing a boat) causes the bike to turn more quickly, and allows the bike to remain upright longer to accomplish step 2 above. The more you lean, the less brakes and throttle you can use — so get the turning part over with as soon as possible.
4) Open the throttle early.
a) Opening the throttle causes the bike to stabilize. The weight transfer from braking and decelerating (Step 2) left the front end compressed and steepened the angle of the forks. This leaves the front end feeling very harsh and being very sensitive to bumps and irregularities in the road. Opening the throttle, even just barely, causes the weight to shift back to the rear resulting in the relaxation of the fork angle. This restores the full suspension travel, softens the ride, and makes the front end less sensitive to bumps.
5) Use precise, smooth control inputs.
a) Smooth application and release of the brakes, clutch and shift lever allows the bike to respond without unnecessary loads being put on any of its components. The ride is more comfortable, the bike responds better, and it's just plain more fun.
The second list presents 'Things Riders Do Wrong':
1) Lack of concentration.
a) This is simply a case of not paying enough attention. When you're riding a motorcycle you need to be 100% focused on riding. Don't be thinking about work, or your love life, or any other distraction. The Hurt Report founds that in the majority of motorcycle accidents, the rider didn't do anything to avoid the accident.
2) Poor visual habits (not looking far enough ahead).
a) Nick stressed the need to remember the formula: D = mph. By this he meant that as a rider increases speed, he/she needs to increase the distance ahead where they look. You should be constantly scanning the road ahead, looking for potential dangers (the 'Scan' part of the S.I.P.D.E.). You should include checking your rear view mirrors too.
3) Early turn-in points.
a) Initiating your turn too soon means you'll be leaned over longer and therefore be spending more time in a state in which you don't have as much control — particularly over the brakes. You may also have to adjust your speed up or down since you probably can't see the exit and don't know if the corner has a decreasing radius or not. If you're rolling on the throttle (as you should) you may end up speeding up too much and exit the corner wide — potentially moving into the oncoming lane or onto the shoulder.
4) Gorilla riding (i.e. non-smooth).
a) This results from jerky control inputs: brakes, shifting, and turning. It can induce unnecessary reactions from the motorcycle, result in temporary loss of traction, or break your concentration.
5) Panic attacks.
a) These are most often caused by entering a corner too 'hot' and thinking you can't make it. In fact, a modem sport-bike with good tires can almost always make it — it's the rider that can't. So if you get into this situation, first tell yourself you can make it. Really believe it. Then look through the corner where you want to go. Push on the inside handlebar to increase your lean angle. Do not use the brakes. If you can summon the courage, open the throttle, even just a little. It really will help.
Go wide… Go late
Paolo Volpara © OMM 2001
After six months away from Istanbul I came back at the end of October with a good ride across Anatolia. In Istanbul I stopped to one of the “classic” meeting points for bikers in town to catch up with news of friends after months of absence. Among good story and reports of “fantastic” rides I was informed of two bad accidents occurred recently. And I was stricken by the similarity.
Both friends are experienced riders, they ride modern, efficient sport bikes, they have good knowledge of the principles of position braking and steering. They are what you will call “advanced riders”… still both made the same mistake.
Before going ahead let me reassure you that both friends still ride: or they will as soon as their bones mend. The fact that they can tell the story does not reduce the seriousness of the mistakes.
They both went off-road in a left corner running short of space in the exit, touching the inevitable gravel that accumulates on verges, loosing traction and sliding (rolling & crashing) away.
I am always interested in understanding the dynamics of an accident: they are one of the best sources of knowledge and I do not mind to cover some miles to be back on the scene for a more clear analysis. An accident that I cannot understand remains like a nightmare in my mind. In these circumstances there was no need to go back to the scene of the crime: my friends made a classic of the “most frequent” mistakes.
Riding a bike in a straight line, on a European Motorway for example, is not too much fun. Riding a sport bike in the same situation is even less fun.
“Go for Corners” is the password that unify sporting riders around the world and, in Turkey, we do not have to go too far for this fun. A large network of secondary roads offers plenty of opportunities for honing the cornering skills.
And this is the problem: while speeding on a straight sound easy and accessible to beginners, the first set of “twisties” opens the gap between good and bad riders. Observation, positioning, planning, speed & gear control, steering and acceleration comes into play in a very fast mode.
Approaching a corner we are, in general, victims of two fantasies, two games played by our mind.
· The first one is the Racing Image: we have seen racers going around corners at incredible leaning angles, knees (and elbows) down, tracing a perfect “entry-apex-exit” line and carrying sped throughout the process. We want to be (or at least) look like them.
· The second fantasy is Corner Prediction: we tend to design the configuration of the corner based on few and imprecise elements in our (visual) possession. We “imagine” how the corner will be.
The problem with both fantasies is that, on public road, we only know what we can actually see and all personal predictions can be overturned in a dramatic way by the reality. Keeping both fantasies under control improves the chances of success in cornering and survival in biking.
Racers operate in a controlled environment: road riders are in a permanently changing situation where the changes are dictated as well by other road users. If a lines of oil appears on track, yellow and black flags go out to inform the racer of this new situation. On the road you are on oil before you can say “what the hell…”
On circuit everybody is supposed to go in the same direction at reasonable speed with no stop: contradictions to these rules are severely punished or visibly announced. On the road that van can change direction, speed and intention at any moment, around that corner you can have a tractor parked with no warning.
In the normal world mayor changes on road surface or great holes/bumps are rarely marked in advance. You come to know as you go.
From this the first idea: because one never knows completely it is intelligent to keep some room for plans modification.
On the road this “room” is called time and space or, in the understandable combination, speed.
Keeping some time and space in reserve for the last minute modification is a key rule to respect and everybody must evaluate his own “reserve” before reaching the limits.
Still we cannot turn into paranoia slowing down for any foreseeable danger and good Position for Vision can help anticipating the hazards and picking up the right line. The second (and for the time being last) idea is to do all we need to do in the space and time we can control. You do not want to initiate your steering and leaning in an unknown situation, you do not want to accelerate or brake in a surface that you cannot see. To this the mantra “go deep-go wide” to be repeated several times at any corner.
Easy to exercise: take the wider possible position on the outside of your lane (right for left corners and vice versa).
This position will give you the max vision around the corner.
Now look at the vanishing point (where the tow sides of the road seem to touch in your vision- red arrow): this is your advanced scout telling you surely how the bend is going to be and the speed you should use.
If the vanishing point comes toward you, reduce speed and check
gear, when it goes away from you increase speed (and check gear).
Ideally the VP should move at your speed keeping a constant distance from the approaching bike. Now you have (before any commitment) speed and gear under control and from the right position you can see the corner opening.
Now you know traffic conditions, road conditions, and surface conditions. Now you can push the bar and initiate your cornering. Try to go a little further into the corner before initiating steering. You will see that all operation comes now into play in territory that your know.
Get the wrong position or anticipate the entry and you will run short of space on left corners or short of luck into the incoming traffic on the right ones.
This is what takes you off-the-road: early entry and wide exit.
Why do we buy bikes that can lean to the extreme, why do we spend money on efficient modern tires with incredible grip…and we do not take the advantage of all these tools with a good traing?
Ρε συ Γιώργο ζαλίστηκα... θέλω ένα μεροκάματο για να τα διαβάσω όλα αυτά!
Δεν μας λες τα S.O.S.;
Αρχικά δημιουργήθηκε από Thanos_
Ρε συ Γιώργο ζαλίστηκα... θέλω ένα μεροκάματο για να τα διαβάσω όλα αυτά!
Δεν μας λες τα S.O.S.;
Ναι ρε Θανο !!! :lol:
Το μυαλο τωρα πεταει αλλου, κι αυτος μας βαζει 700σελιδες αγγλικο κειμενο ....
:lol: :rotflmao: :lol:
Αρχικά δημιουργήθηκε από Thanos_
Ρε συ Γιώργο ζαλίστηκα... θέλω ένα μεροκάματο για να τα διαβάσω όλα αυτά!
Δεν μας λες τα S.O.S.;
OK
το ζουμι:
ΤΟ ΝΟΥ ΣΟΥ !!!!
αυτα...
Αρχικά δημιουργήθηκε από crs-k
Ναι ρε Θανο !!! :lol:
Το μυαλο τωρα πεταει αλλου, κι αυτος μας βαζει 700σελιδες αγγλικο κειμενο ....
:lol: :rotflmao: :lol:
κοιτα να δεις...
παλι νομισες οτι θα βαζω ξεκ@@@λιδια?
καλυτερα να σου βγει το ματι παρα το ονομα..
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :rotflmao:
periklisk
25/10/2004, 08:28
Αρχικά δημιουργήθηκε από Thanos_
Ρε συ Γιώργο ζαλίστηκα... θέλω ένα μεροκάματο για να τα διαβάσω όλα αυτά!
Δεν μας λες τα S.O.S.;
Ναι ρε ακλαμά Γιώργο......
Και ο ινστρούκτορας ξαναχτυπά!
Πάρε ένα μεταφραστήρι ρε αλήτη, μας ζάλισες!
:D :D :D
:a27:
Τα μεταφραστήρια δεν δουλεύουν, οι μεταφράσεις παίρνουν αιώνες (που δεν τους έχουμε), οπότε μάθε να διαβάζεις μόνος σου...
http://www.learnenglish.de/
Το πρώτο ποστ λέει χοντρικά ότι με βάση στατιστική του '94 δεν φταίει ο κουτάκιας που έκλεισε τους περισσότερους, αλλά το ότι ήταν λιώμα ο μοτοσυκλετιστής και βγήκε από τον δρόμο -παίζει, είναι γεγονός-, 2ον πλάγιες συγκρούσεις όπου φταίνε κουτιά ή άλλα οχήματα που παραβιάζουν στοπ, φανάρια κλπ ενώ φυσικά ο κανίβαλος μοτοσυκλετιστής πάει πάνω από το όριο και ο κουτάκιας δεν τον βλέπει -και ούτε κοιτάει-, 3ον μετωπικές, 4ον ο απέναντι στρίβει και πέφτεις πάνω του, 5ον πέφτεις από λακούβα στο δρόμο ή σε πατάει αμάξι ενώ είσαι κάτω, ακόμα και αν τό΄ριξες επίτηδες.
Έμφαση δίνεται στο ότι ήπιες άρα έπεσες το οποίο αποδεικνύεται πανεύκολα, αλλά θα μου επιτρέψετε να μην είμαι εθελοντής (πάλι).
:beer:
Στο δεύτερο, λέει αρκετά ενδιαφέροντα για σωστό ντύσιμο, στρατηγική οδήγησης, κεραίες ανοιχτές (κεραίες έ; ) στους κινδύνους, κλπ.
Στο τρίτο λέει πως να επιβιώσεις από θανατηφόρο δυστύχημα, σε τρεις παραλλαγές, 1η όταν σου βγει από στροφή κουτί (και έχεις το νου σου) ετοιμάσου για φρένα πανικού, δες αν σε παίρνει για εκτροπή υπολογίζοντας και το αντίθετο ρεύμα αν έρχεται κανείς, 2η περίπτωση είσαι πιο κοντά στη διασταύρωση όπου δε προλαβαίνεις να φτύσεις και πας ολοταχώς για το κεντρικό σημείο του κουτιού και πιο ισχυρό, οπότε άν μπορείς στρίψε προς το μπροστά ή πίσω φτερό που είναι μαλακότερα. 3η περίπτωση πατάς γερά στους μαρσπιέδες και πηδάς προς τα πάνω για να πας πάνω από το κουτί, άν πηγαίνεις με 65 χλμ/ώρα έτσι κι αλλιώς είσαι πιθανότατα νεκρός οπότε, άν πας από πάνω μπορεί να γλιτώσεις με γρατζουνιές...
Φυσικά, άν πετύχεις στη κίνηση το κουτί, και έχεις εξασκηθεί στις εκτροπές και στο να διαβάζεις και να προβλέπεις ότι θα στη κάτσει, μπορεί να τη γλιτώσεις μια χαρά.
Είναι σαφές ότι άν είσαι πονηρεμένος σε κάθε στροφή, δύσκολα έχεις τέτοιες εκπλήξεις.
Τα επόμενα ποστ έχουν να κάνουν με σημαντικά άρθρα από το sportrider, σχετικά με τη σωστή γρήγορη οδήγηση σε δρόμο και τις διαφορές με την οδήγηση σε πίστα που πρέπει να υπάρχουν για να μην γίνονται μοιραία λάθη.
Βασικοί άξονες στο δρόμο είναι το να χτίζεις ένα καλό ρυθμό με προοδευτική αύξηση της ταχύτητας σε τέτοιο σημείο ώστε ο έλεγχος να επαρκεί για να μη πέφτεις σε χαντάκια, να βλέπεις τα πάντα κλπ -ειδικά σε ομαδικές διαδρομές όπου ο αρχάριος βιαστικός είναι επικίνδυνος- σε αντίθεση με τη πίστα που στη τελική μετά τη στροφή δεν παίζει γκρεμός -άσε που το ασθενοφόρο είναι δίπλα. Πολλοί αγωνιζόμενοι ΔΕΝ τρέχουν στο δρόμο για τον απλό λόγο ότι δεν έχουν τάσεις αυτοκτονίας (τεράστιο ποστ, σόρι που δε μεταφράζω άλλο).
Η παράθεση στα φόρα είναι συχνά πιο κουραστική στο διάβασμα από τα ορίτζιναλ άρθρα, οπότε:
Τα πιο πολλά από τα παραπάνω είναι εδώ:
http://www.sportrider.com/ride/new_rider_guide/
Μάθετε αγγλικά. Άμα δε ξέρετε εγώ προσωπικώς χ?στηκα. :lol:
H.A.Balafoutre
11/04/2007, 01:15
Τεράστιο πόστ ρε idi. Κι από την άλλη, ο zireus δεν έχει άδικο.
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.