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gcrook
29/05/2005, 03:24
GSXR Shock Swap (Τα λεει ολα νομιζω) (http://www.kuhnco.com/SV650/GSXRShockSwap/)

Η διαφορα στη ποιοτητα ειναι εμφανης νομιζω:sick:


15423

gcrook
15/06/2005, 14:51
First I want to say, this is a new level of love with my bike now. Its more like you knew your lady for
a long time but all of a sudden, she treats you MUCH better than before...but anyway, this won't be the
blow by blow with picture tutorial, because we didn't take much pictures, nor I am good at writing.
My English is not anywhere close to be grammatically
correct, and none of you would read Chinese, so.....

Well, everything suppose to bolt right up, but its just like all other project, you will run into problems.
Most of us already know what we need for this swap, things like the fork assembly(make sure the bearings, upper/lower tripple were there), clipons, gsxr fender to match with your fork application, brake rotors, and rotary type steering damper.

My friends helped me yesterday afternoon, he said it won't take longer than 2 hours on this swap, since he did this swap on his 00 GSXR600; but we ended up using about 5 hours on mine and I will tell you why in a little bit.
Procedures are pretty straight forward, a few common sense, standard tools(8mm, 10mm, 12mm socket/wrench, safety torx bit head, 4.5mm, 5.5mm, 8mm allen/hex, torque wrench, 1-1/4 or 33mm socket, but 1-1/4 fits better, blue and red Loc-tite), and patient.

What we did, we put the bike on rear stand, removed the lower belly, and jack up the bike by the lower oil sump/pan. Removed mirrors, upper fairing, plastic trims, unplug headlight assemly wires, and tach/speedo signal harness.

Next, remove the front wheel by loosen up two 10mm pinch bolt on the right hand side, then uncrew the long axial out(24mm hex hole), you will need a wheel removeal tool; or you can do this, we made our own by using a 24mm head bolt, doublenutted on the thread and use that to remove the axial off the front forks. Put the axial away we will use it later unless your fork assembly come with a new one.

next go ahead break loose all those bolts on the clipon and tripple tree first while they are still intack, they are all 8mm or 10mm, a few are 12mm. Take the gauage cluster/fairing-stay out from the main frame. Get the 1-1/4 socket and your breaker bar, and take out the main nut off the top tripple. Its pretty tight, and make sure your bike won't tip over while u loosen it.
I will be putting the Scott/Ohlin rotatry type steering damper on that location, so I won't need the factory nut and washer anymore.

Here is the first problem we run into. I would really want to keep the extra long and heavy handlebar-end that comes with the SV1ks, but that Phillips head screw its a pain on the ass the remove, and we ended up drilling it out, and wasted about 30 precisous minutes on that. and later on we found out the Gixxer clipon is much shorter than the SV unit, so the long barend won't fit onto the new clipon. And now i just have to use the short one.

Remove your ignition key switch with the Safety Torx bit, I forgot the size of it, but its connects to the bottom of your top Tripple, and they had red loc-tite on it, so its pretty freaking tight and pain to remove. Go ahead remove your throttle guide, throttle, kill switch/start button assembly, and mastercyclinder on your right hand side. Remove your Clutch master cylinder and grip on your left hand side. We are going to reuse all of them later on.

Next is our 2nd problem, after we removed the top tripple, there are 2 aluminium collar that keep the steering head shaft inplace. We don't have any special tool to take it off, and my friend decided to man handling it with his supreme tool of all tools - Hammer and flat head screw driver. While I went inside and get some to drink, they got them loosen, with one cracked. I was kind of panic, but I have no option. It was Sunday and we all want to get it going.

After that its straight forward, take the SV fork unit out completely. If you going to reuse the calipers, remove them and put them onto the new fork unit.. Make sure use Loc-tite.
Since the Gixxer brake disc is 10mm bigger than SV unit, so we need to swap it over. Those bolt are pretty tight, since they had loc-tite on it of course, use 6mm hex driver combine with a rachet, that should speed up the process. When you put the new disc back on, make sure the direction is correct (inward/outward) and use red loc-tite.

Meanwhile, put the GsxR unit back onto the bike, make sure the steering head bearing are free of dirt and well greased. Put that 2 aluminum lock collar back in, we reused the cracked one, we placed it on the bottom and it works fine. Make sure there is a washer between 2 of those aluminum collars. Put the upper tripple on, and place the big nut back onto the end of the head shaft and torque it to 85 lb-ft.
*note* Make sure all your electronic lines are place in the correct location, some route inside between 2 fork tubes some goes outside, if you misplace them, you might pinch them when you turn your steering at full lock.

On the left clipon, put the clutch master clyinder and grip back on, and tighten up the barend.
On the right clip on, we have to jam all of the parts close together since the GSXR clipon length is shorter than SV's.

what we did next is put on the Scott steering damper, I love it since they are VERy well make, its a piece of art. It even comes with 15mm tank spacers. Its pretty much straight forward there, use blue loc-tite and everything bolt right up.

Almost done but not final. We installed the Stainless Brake line made by Goodridge. Quality is superb, and length is just right. BUT, they had a note about their banjo bolt length might not fit all, espeically for Suzuki application, even though I bought the kit specific for SV1000s, the banjo-bolt that goes into the mastercylinder was too long, and we stripped one of our mastercylinder. I'm glad I have another 5/8 mastercylinder laying around and we replaced it right away. Also, instead of using the banjo bolt that comes with the kit, I removed the one with double holes came off from the original caliper, and it fits well.(remember the stock setup goes to the left caliper first and split half to the right caliper? This kit make the split right at the master cylinder, maybe this gives better disturution and feedback).

Be patient, bleed the brakes good, that set us back about 1 full hour without the hand pump tool. After the brake is nice and firm, install the gauge, upper fairing and front fender. Ziptie the stainless line so it won't bind or rub any moving parts. Double check everything and clean up.

For now, my setups is the following:

K3 GSXR750 fork assembly
K3 GSXR1000 fender
K3 TL1000R brake rotors
K2 GSXR1000 6 pot caliper
EBC HH pads
Goodrigde Stainless brake lines
Scott's Steering damper

I have the fork tubes sit flush with the top tripple clamp ( i think that gives similar rake angle and height with my previous SV setup of 6mm lower than stock)
Preload has 3 line showing, Compression is half turn out from full stiff, and rebound is 1 turn out from full stiff. That's what my friend suggested and he weight about the same as me, and I like it so far. Not much of aggresive riding yet but we'll see.


My first impression is, i have to give more steering input since obviously the clipon lengths are shorter, but that gives faster and precise steering input. Turn in is quicker(that could be the front preload setting)... and MAN!! The front brake is STRONG. 2 fingers can throw me off the bike if I want to.


16981

gcrook
15/06/2005, 14:52
2


16982

gcrook
15/06/2005, 14:53
3


16983

gcrook
15/06/2005, 14:54
4


16985

gcrook
15/06/2005, 14:55
5


16987

gcrook
15/06/2005, 14:56
6


16989

gcrook
15/06/2005, 14:57
Μονο αυτα τα λιγα χρειαστηκε για την μετατροπη:eek:
Ολο το μπροστινο συστημα δηλαδη.:smokin:


16990

gcrook
01/07/2005, 16:39
Αυτα ειναι.....:(

The year of GSXR shocks that fits pre-03 SV's 337mm shock are:
96, 97, 98, 99 GSX-R 750 (356mm)
97, 98, 99 GSX-R 600 (356mm)
00+ GSX-R 600/750 shocks are too short (325mm)

03 SV650 shock length: 330mm
2001-2003 GSX-R600: 325.5 mm
2000-2003 GSX-R750: 325 mm
2001/2002 GSX-R1000: 329 mm
2003 GSX-R1000: 332.5 mm
1999-2003 GSX 1300R (Hayabusa): 330 mm

Ohlins website (check for shock lengths) click below:
http://www.ohlins.com/cgi-bin/dbsok...ist&category=mc
Racetech website (check for shock spring rates and everything else) click below:
http://www.racetech.com/evalving/English/mctype.asp

gcrook
01/07/2005, 16:41
Η διαφορα στις βασεις του αμορτισερ ειναι πολυ μικρη


18544

gcrook
01/07/2005, 16:43
Ανακατασκευασμενο αμορτισερ απο GSXR για να μπει κατ'ευθειαν σε SV.

SVRaceShop Track/Street Shock Upgrade:

Includes -
Rear GSXR-based custom built shock
* RaceTech Gold Valve
* Custom shim stack
* Polished Internals
* Lengthened to work correctly on the SV ('99-'02)
OR
* Optional lengthening for more ride height ('03+)
* Yellow Zinc spring retainers and cups
* Silkolene suspension fluid
* Fresh Nitrogen charge
* Available in Red, Black, Gold or Blue annodized finish with Gold or Black trim
* Various color springs available for a custom look


18545

gcrook
01/07/2005, 16:44
Το πιο φθηνο μοντελο για street/track χρηση.

Budget" SV Track/Street Shock Upgrade:

Includes -
Rear GSXR-based custom built shock
* Custom shim stack
* Lengthened to work correctly on the SV
OR
* Optional lengthening for more ride height ('03+)
* Yellow Zinc spring retainers and cups
* Silkolene suspension fluid
* Fresh Nitrogen charge
* Available in Red, Black, Gold or Blue annodized finish with Gold or Black trim


18546

gcrook
01/07/2005, 16:49
Αχ.. και ενα τετοιο και θα ημουνα κομπλε:(


18547

gcrook
01/07/2005, 16:50
Δεν θελω πολλα..μονο ενα μπροστινο απο GSXR.


18548

gcrook
01/07/2005, 16:59
Ολη η συζητηση ΕΔΩ !!! (http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=11522&highlight=gsxr+shock)