Choosing an Oil for Your Motorcycle
There are a few special problem areas for motorcycle oil. Most motorcycles
have wet clutches, which means the motor oil runs through the clutch. If the
motor oil has too much molybdenum in it, there are fears that the clutch can
start slipping. No one I know has ever actually had this happen to them, but
the warnings are all over your owners' manual and the oil companies' web pages.
On the back of all certified oil cans is a circular stamp with the
certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of
the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause
clutch slipping over time. Essentially all 0w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are
energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle.
Most motorcycles run the engine oil through the transmission, and the
transmission gears are very hard on the oil's VII package. This means that over
a couple thousand miles, the oil's viscosity can break down. Standard car oils
are only good for typically 1500 miles before they've lost about half of their
viscosity. Remember, 10w-40 oils contain a lot of VIIs which tend to shear in
your transmission, so I believe 10w-40 oils should be avoided. You can't use
10w-30 because of the friction modifiers. This doesn't leave much. Commercial
15w-40 oils are a good choice, because they have relatively few VIIs which are
the more expensive shear-stable sort. Synthetics typically don't contain much
of a VII package, so shear is not as big an issue with them.
Some people use their motorcycles only sporadically. This means the oil can
all drain completely into the sump, leaving no protective film on the bearings.
The first start after a long period of non-use can be particularly hard on an
engine. Film strength is very important if you're a sporadic rider.
There are several key advantages to using Synthetic Oils:
Synthetic oils have a higher viscosity index than mineral base oils.
Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and
thickening at low temperatures. Since synthetics have little or no VIIs,
synthetics last longer in service without radical changes in viscosity.
Synthetics have a much higher film strength than petroleum oils, so it takes a
lot longer for the oil to drain completely off your bearings and into your
sump.
Diester synthetics are polar molecules with solvent properties which dissolve
residues and combustion byproducts.
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