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HINTS AND TIPS




WHY DO I HAVE TO RUN MY ENGINE IN??



The amount of discussion that the above title brings can be overwhelming with statements like" I thrashed mine from the day I had it and it's not done it any harm"
The most important part of running in the engine is the type of oil that is used? 12 years ago most oils were the same and only varied in their viscosities. With the advancement of new technologies the oils of to day are far superior with liquid PTFE additives to name just one. This additive is very good at protecting your engine and all will become clearer as you will find.
Because of this advancement in oils the most significant oil is the Fully Synthetic Oil which contains liquid PTFE (along with other additives) which reduces friction and protects metal parts when the engine is first started from cold, and its this issue which I will tackle first Friction reducing PTFE does exactly what it says by coating metal surfaces to protect against wear and tear. Should you use this type of oil in a Virgin engine it would probably render that engine completely useless within a very short period of time. The reason being is that because this type of oil protects so well that any machining Swarf or the like does not get removed, therefore the engine is never given the chance to bed in correctly
The most important issue is the sealing of the piston rings to the cylinder bores, these must be allowed to bed in properly and heat and stress play an important part in doing this. They must bed in correctly to provide this important sealing. If this is not allowed to happen you will end up with an oil-eating engine. By using protective oil such as Fully Synthetic this will not occur as this type of oil will not allow the edges to be worn off thus not enabling the rings to seal correctly. If not run in correctly glazed bores will occur, this is a symptom that must be avoided at all costs as this will not allow the bores to retain that all important bit of oil required for the next start up of the engine. The cooling down of an engine is also just as important and the engine must be allowed to cool down and heat up properly. If you are stuck in traffic don't allow the fan to come on, turn your engine off until you are ready to go. This is most important when you are running in a new engine.
This bedding in procedure is vital to ensure you have reliability and good performance, the last thing you want to do is to reduce the friction between the new parts. My own recommendation is to use a good quality mineral oil that is specified by the manufacturer. This type of oil carries the Swarf and loose metals to the oil filter thus trapping the unwanted items.
This is why that first service is so critical because the oil is checked for metal particles and the filter is changed thus removing the trapped bits of metals. Because of this I recommend that you don't exceed the first service Mileage as it is most important to remove these unwanted particles sooner rather than later. Getting your first service done slightly earlier rather than later due to this fact can and does help. The manufacturer has spent Millions in engine technology to ensure good performance from your engine and do not put these service limits in their handbooks just for the sake of it. Picture this scenario you haven't changed your oil for say 1000 miles before your first service is due, all that Swarf and minute particles of metal are now making a nice little Grinding Paste and damaging your engine .You wouldn't leave a frying pan for instance for a year without changing the oil in it would you? Or would you??
During it's early years of an engines life parts must be stressed and allowed to heat up and cool down and it's this procedure that is of importance. An engine that is thrashed or incorrectly run in will lack Horsepower, smoke and also use vast amounts of oil in its worst case. When starting your engine from cold this is where the most damage is done, the oil is thicker and therefore takes longer to circulate around moving parts. You can help this start up procedure in many ways, which will enable your engine to produce full power and not damage engine parts
Some engines can be turned over without the engine starting by leaving the Kill switch off, by doing this you are circulating the oil before stressing the parts prior to starting the engine. Modern day bikes only have a side stand and because of this I recommend that you sit astride the machine so its level when you start the engine and oil is then distributed evenly to all parts and not just to one side. There have been instances where a 4-cylinder machine was always started on its side stand and only number 1 big end was getting the correct amount of oil to it. The remaining 3 big ends were lacking in oil and the Forth big end was damaged beyond repair. The same applies to engines on centre stands as the oil normally sits at the front of the sump, which means the rear of the engine would be lacking oil.
When starting the engine from cold reduce the choke as soon as possible to attain an even running and ride off gently and slowly, this will enable you to turn the choke off earlier and allow the oil to get up to working temperature more quickly. Be positive but gentle with the throttle until the engine has reached its normal working temperature.
When you are sure that the engine has reached its normal working temperature you can now proceed to Bed in all the moving parts. If the manufacturer has stated Maximum running in Revs as lets say 5000 RPM keep to this. The correct way is to use the bike as you normally would vary the speeds in all gears but don't go over this limit. This can be achieved on your favourite piece of road with varying corners, straights and uphill/downhill runs if possible? By doing this all-moving parts will be stressed evenly and correctly. Just because it's a new engine doesn't mean you cannot use it. By doing this it will ensure that the parts are stressed properly and all the Swarf and Minute particles are removed by the friction which will in turn produce a well run in engine affording Maximum Horsepower and a long life.
Staying at say a speed of 60 MPH does have an adverse effect so avoid doing this at all costs. Labouring the engine will also produce an adverse effect this is when you are in to high of a gear and the engine is being overstressed, as it is not working at it's maximum. The engine needs to run freely so vary the speed, change up and down the gears and work the engine and all the benefits will be yours. Adhere to the manufacturers recommendations and after approximately 4000 miles you can then change to good Fully Synthetic Oil to protect that investment you have made by running the engine in correctly.
We all love the sound of our bikes but resist that temptation to give the throttle that last BLIP prior to turning your engine off, all this does is flush all the oil from the cylinder bores and leaves them unprotected. If you are in the habit of doing this then try and stop it because the damage is done and cannot be brought back .
DISCLAIMER: Please note this is my own point of view and will not be held responsible for anything untoward if you follow this procedure. The information is given in good faith and is used by myself when running in new machinery; other people may have different views and ways of doing things?? I have attained good results by using this procedure.