Μας Κοροϊδεύουν? Περι αλλαγής λαδιών το θέμα (Διευθετήθηκε)

[Arxagelos]

Αρχικά δημιουργήθηκε από gstef
ρε Αρχάγγελε, λύσε μου μια απορία,

τις φωτό από τάπα και σίτα με το δάχτυλο να δείχνει ακριβώς αυτό που συζητάμε, που στο καλό τις βρήκες????

Λες και βγήκαν αυτές οι φώτο για αυτό το θρεντ, ούτε παραγγελία να ηταν

google is your friend.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371723

[gstef]

Αρχικά δημιουργήθηκε από Arxagelos
google is your friend.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371723

thanks,

όσο για την τοποθέτηση από τα μαστόρια για το αν βγαίνει η σίτα, δεν νομίζω να μας απαντήσουν.

Η τάπα όμως βγαίνει, είναι σίγουρο.

[reinmeister]

ενα απο τα "μαστορια",εγω δηλαδη,δεν εχω ιδεα ,εαν γινεται η οχι...ειναι γνωστο τοις πασοι,οτι για να ακουμπησω ktm ,πρεπει να συνδραμουν πολυ περισσοτερα απο ενα πραγματα και δυστυχως ο κοσμος μας απεχει πολυ απο τετοια τελειοτητα...

@gstef...εξακολουθεις να κανεις πως δεν καταλαβαινεις ,οποτε θα μου επιτρεψεις...

[vaska]

Είδατε που σας τα 'λεγα, πολύ κωλόπαιδο ο REIN

[gstef]

Reinmeister,

δεν ήθελα να έρθω σε προσωπική αντιπαράθεση με κανέναν, κι αν είπαμε και μια κουβέντα παραπάνω....:smilea:

Αν κατάλαβα κάτι από εδώ, είναι ότι δεν θα πρέπει να είμαι τόσο δύσπιστος και οι μηχανικοί θα πρέπει να είναι λίγο πιο υπομονετικοί με τους καινούριους πελάτες και τις απορίες τους

[macdeath_s]

πόσες φορές να χει φταρνιστεί άραγε ο καράφλας με αυτό το thread...?

[mikros boudas]

ρε ο reimeister ειναι ασχετος,πρεζακιας και σατανιστης.δεν εχει ιδεα απο μηχανακια και λαδια.ασε που εχει ενα χοντρογουρουνο για μηχανακι...που πας με την βεσπα ρε?


δεν γνωριζομαστε προσωπικα reinmeister αλλα

[gefr]

Twenty-eight Minute Oil Change

This is in response to a letter some nutcase wrote to RIDER magazine concerning the KTM 950-990 Adventure. RIDER did a great report on the 010 990 Adventure, but some guy wrote in complaining about the bike, stating that the fuel tanks had to be removed to do such basic services as clean the air filter and change the oil. He went on to say how much easier an oil change is on his Harley. It takes much longer to change all the oils on a Harley that on the KTM. I’ve change plenty of both. Below is step by step 28 minute oil change on the KTM 990 Adventure.

I did this without having anything laid out before hand and without getting in a big hurry. My bike has the Touratech aluminum skid plate, which squeezes the rubber garments in the skid plate tighter than the stock skid plate does, making it a little harder to get off and on. I also replace all washers and o-rings.

Here’s the tools you’ll need. 10 mm T-handle or socket and ratchet. 19mm socket and ratchet. 13mm wrench. 8mm T-handle wrench. Two drain pans. A mostly full can of electric contact-cleaner. Needle nose pliers. Oh yeah, one bungee cord.

First, DO NOT remove the fuel tanks or crash bars. Remove the skid plate and set it aside. Place an oil drain pan under the bike (you knew that) and remove the 19mm drain bolt from the bottom of the motor. Remove the oil dip stick so the oil drains faster. Place it where you can find it later. The biggest time waster is not being able to find stuff.

While that oil is draining, remove the two 8mm bolts that hold the oil screen cover on the right side of the motor. Note which side is up on the screen, clean it with contact-cleaner, and put it back in its place. Clean the cover and put on a new o-ring. Reinstall the cover. Don’t over tighten the bolts. Clean and reinstall the 19mm drain bolt with a new washer. Use good sense when tightening it or use a torque wrench. Wipe off the bottom of the motor. As far as using new o-rings and washers, it’s up to you. I only replace those ever third or forth oil change.

Now remove the two 8 mm bolts that hold the rectifier-regulator on. Use a bungee cord to hold it back out of the way. Now remove the 13mm drain plug from the oil tank. This will be messy, but no worse than that guy’s Harley. While that is draining, using the 8mm T-handle and reach up under the left fuel tank and remove the two 8mm bolts that hold in the large oil line in place. A small amount of oil will drain from that. Use you finger and remove the screen. Clean that with contact-cleaner and replace it and the oil line. Be careful and start the bolts by hand, it’s not that far of a reach. With a T-handle wrench and some practice this is easy. Just use good feel and tighten the bolts back like they were. Reinstall the rectifier-regulator.

A second drain plan is handy now—to place the oil filter in so you don’t have to drop it into the oil pan you have under the bike, that’s now contains about three liters of oil. Remove the bolts for the main oil filter cover and pull it off with needle nose pliers. Clean it and place the new o-ring on it. Use the same needle nose pliers and spread them out tightly against the inside circle of the oil filter and pull it out, and drop it into the clean oil pan. I spray contact-cleaner into the filter hole to flush out the dirty oil. I then wipe the area off and place in a new filter, then the cap. Start the bolts carefully and tighten them with the super handy T-handle. Clean and reinstall the 13mm drain plug.

Use what’s left of you contact-cleaner and wash the oil spill from everything it dripped on and let that mess run into the drain pan. While that is dripping, pour in 2.5 liters of the oil you like. Screw the dip stick in and start the bike. Run it for thirty to sixty seconds and check the oil level. You’ll need to add another half liter to fill it to the full mark. Reinstall the skid plate and your done. Don’t forget to remove the drain pan from under the bike before dropping it off the center stand (you knew that).